Vertical or horizontal windlass: choose according to your boat
The choice between a vertical and horizontal windlass determines not only the amount of space taken up on board, but also the complexity of installation and the efficiency of chain retention. Each configuration has advantages depending on the layout of your boat.
| Criterion | Vertical windlass | Horizontal windlass |
| Deck space | Minimal (only the chain wheel is visible) | Significant (engine on deck) |
| Installation | Complex (deep chain well required) | Simple (deck mounting) |
| Chain contact surface | 180° (2-3 links) | 90° (risk of detachment) |
| Fall height | 400 mm minimum | 604 mm minimum |
| Maintenance | Motor protected under bridge | Direct access, easy rinsing |
When to choose a vertical windlass?
Vertical windlasses are ideal for sailboats and boats with a deep chain locker (minimum 60 cm). The aesthetics of the deck are preserved, with only the chain wheel visible. The motor, protected from salt and water under the deck, requires less maintenance. The superior pulling force and better chain retention (180° contact) ensure safe anchorage in exposed areas. Italwinch and Quick Balder offer excellent vertical models for sailboats from 9 to 15 meters.
When should you opt for a horizontal windlass?
Horizontal windlasses are suitable for motorboats and sailboats with shallow chain wells. Installation is simplified, requiring only a few holes drilled in the deck. Maintenance can be carried out without dismantling, thanks to the accessibility of the motor. The reduced drop height (12 inches) allows installation on boats with limited freeboard. The Quick Prince and Lewmar ranges are ideal for boats between 6 and 12 meters.
Manual or electric: calculate the power required
Manual windlass: simplicity and autonomy
The manual windlass is designed for boats up to 8 meters without electrical installation or for occasional anchoring in shallow water.
Lifting force ranges from 200 to 300 kg depending on the model. It takes 6 to 8 minutes to raise a 40-meter anchor – acceptable for weekly anchorages, but tedious on a daily basis.
The lack of electricity consumption and low cost appeal to those on a tight budget. However, solo sailing or deep anchorages quickly reveal its limitations.
The electric windlass: comfort and efficiency
The electric windlass is essential for boats over 8 meters and for any regular anchoring. The average retrieval speed is 15 meters per minute. You can operate it with one hand from the cockpit using a wired remote control or a 2-channel control.
The disengageable capstan serves as a winch for mooring lines. Correct power sizing is essential for the reliability and longevity of the system.
Power calculation table
| Boat length | Occasional | Frequent | Deep (>20m) |
| 6 meters max | 150W | 300W | 500W |
| 6 to 8 meters | 500W | 700W | 1000W |
| 8 to 10 meters | 700W | 1000W | 1200W |
| 10 to 15 meters | 1000W | 1200W | 1500W |
The essential components of a windlass system
The chain wheel: the heart of the system
The chain wheel, a toothed wheel that receives the chain, must correspond exactly to the diameter of your chain (6, 8, 10, 12, or 14 mm). An incorrect fit will cause slippage and premature wear.
Italwinch and Quick chain wheels are compatible with the main chains on the market. Some models accept two diameters by reversing the chain wheel.
Capstan and windlass: real utility
The drum (or smooth drum) allows the windlass to be used as a winch after disengaging the motor: useful for mooring lines or retrieving a floating anchor from a mooring buoy. On sailboats with sufficient winches, the drum is superfluous and gets in the way of the jib sheet. On motorboats, it facilitates maneuvering at the dock.
Control systems
- The foot switch is a hands-free control from the foredeck, which is essential.
- The wired remote control allows control from the cockpit, for maximum comfort when sailing solo.
- The 2-channel control manages raising and lowering separately.
- The double reversing switch reverses the direction of rotation of the motor.
For electrical protection
The windlass circuit breaker protects the circuit against overloads in the event of a blocked anchor or chain. For a windlass consuming 80A, install a minimum 100A circuit breaker.
The bipolar contactor relay isolates the windlass from the battery bank during periods of inactivity and prevents parasitic discharges.
The control panel brings all the controls together in one accessible location.
Installation and adjustment: key steps
Position your windlass optimally
Three rules determine the efficiency of your windlass:
- The chain wheel must be perfectly aligned with the bow roller on the longitudinal axis of the boat, with a maximum tolerance of 2 cm.
- Maintain a minimum distance of 1 meter between the chain wheel and the bow roller to prevent the chain from jamming.
- Check the working angles: the chain must descend at a vertical angle of at least 15° and be positioned at a minimum of 10° above the horizontal axis of the bow roller.
Once the location has been confirmed, use the template provided to mark the drilling points accurately. Apply marine sealant to each hole before drilling. Then secure the windlass with through studs or stainless steel bolts, never with simple screws that would not withstand the stress. Install a reinforcement plate under the deck to distribute the mechanical stress evenly.
Connect your windlass safely
Use a 25 mm² or 35 mm² cable depending on the power of your windlass and the distance to the batteries. It is essential to respect the polarities when connecting: red wire to positive, black wire to negative. The circuit breaker must be positioned no more than 50 cm from the windlass for optimal protection.
Install the bipolar contactor relay between your batteries and the windlass. Position the foot switch within easy reach of the bow roller so that you can control the windlass while monitoring the chain. Before charging, test the rotation in both directions to check that the installation is working properly.
Adjust the brake correctly
Your windlass brake must be able to stop the anchor from descending abruptly without breaking the chain. To adjust it, tighten it gradually until you obtain a firm lock that allows slight slippage under heavy load. Then test the adjustment by performing a rapid descent with 20 meters of chain deployed.
A brake that is too tight will quickly overheat and wear out the linings prematurely. Conversely, a brake that is too loose will allow the chain to slip uncontrollably and compromise the safety of your anchorage. Find the right balance for effective and durable braking.
Maintain your windlass to extend its life
After each trip out to sea, follow these simple steps to preserve your windlass:
- Rinse thoroughly with fresh water, paying particular attention to the chain wheel
- Check for any ropes or debris that may be stuck
- Lubricate the electrical connections with dielectric grease
- Check the sprocket for wear (rounded teeth = replacement necessary)
- Tighten the fasteners if necessary
Once a year, have your windlass serviced by a certified professional for a complete overhaul:
- Drain the oil from the gearbox
- Inspect the motor brushes
- Check the gear clearance
- Test the brake torque
- Complete check of the electrical circuit
Before winter storage, prepare your windlass to get through the season without any problems:
- Rinse and dry thoroughly
- Spray protective lubricant on metal parts
- Disconnect the electrical connection to prevent parasitic discharges
- Protect from the elements if the boat remains outside
- In the spring, run it empty to redistribute the grease
This preventive maintenance prevents breakdowns at anchor and extends the life of your windlass by several years.
Summary: what you need to remember
A windlass makes anchoring simple and comfortable. Choosing the right model for your boat and your habits will save you years of physical strain.
Start by choosing between vertical and horizontal. The vertical windlass is ideal for sailboats with a deep chain locker: it preserves the aesthetics, protects the motor under the deck, and provides better chain support. The horizontal windlass is suitable for motorboats and shallow chain lockers: simplified installation and direct maintenance.
Choose the right power rating: an 8- to 10-meter boat that is frequently anchored requires a 1000W windlass. Refer to the sizing chart, which cross-references boat length and frequency of use. An undersized windlass will struggle to raise the anchor, while an oversized model will consume unnecessary power.
Installation requires three absolute rules: perfect alignment of the windlass with the bow roller on the longitudinal axis, a minimum distance of 1 meter between the two to avoid jamming, and compliance with working angles. Always use through bolts with a reinforcement plate under the deck, never simple screws. 25 or 35 mm² wiring, depending on the power, guarantees a stable power supply.
Maintenance is simple: rinse thoroughly with fresh water after each outing, paying particular attention to the drive gear, check the tightness of the screws monthly, and grease the electrical connections. Have a professional perform an annual service to drain the gearbox and carry out a full inspection of the electrical circuit. These preventive measures will prevent breakdowns at anchor and extend the life of your windlass.
FAQ – Your questions about boat windlasses
Can an electric windlass be installed on a boat without an engine?
Yes, provided you have sufficient battery power and a means of recharging (solar panels, wind turbine, portable generator). Allow for a minimum battery capacity of 200Ah.
Can the windlass pull up a stuck anchor?
The pulling force of a windlass rarely exceeds 500 kg. A seriously stuck anchor requires maneuvering with the motor (moving forward over the anchor) or the use of a release buoy. Excessive force may damage the windlass or break the chain.
What is the service life of a windlass?
With regular maintenance, a high-quality windlass will last 15 to 20 years. Wear parts (chain wheel, motor brushes, seals) are easy to replace. The housing and gearbox are virtually indestructible.
Can the windlass be used while sailing?
This is not recommended. The windlass is not designed to hold the anchor under constant tension. Always transfer the load to the anchor cleat once the anchor has been raised. When sailing, the anchor must be secured to the bow roller, never held by the windlass alone.
Do you need a remote control or is the foot switch sufficient?
For crewed sailing, the foot switch is sufficient (one person at the bow controls it). When sailing solo, the wired remote control in the cockpit becomes almost indispensable: it allows you to steer and manage the anchor simultaneously.
The windlass is running slowly. Is this normal?
No, a windlass that slows down usually indicates a problem. Start by checking your battery charge: the voltage must exceed 12.5V. If your batteries are discharged, recharge them. Then check the electrical connections: clean and grease them if they show signs of oxidation. If your windlass has slowed down gradually over time, the motor is probably dirty or the gearbox is low on oil. In this case, professional servicing is required.